Puppy Training Schedule By Age – Professional Dog Training Tips
Did you know that by
the age of seven weeks,
your puppy’s brain is fully developed?
That means that by the time they’re
ready to come home with you,
they’re ready to start
learning. In this video,
I’m going to tell you about a puppy
training schedule by age as well as by the
progressions and what level they should
be at so that you can give your puppy
the best start possible. I’m Ken
Steepe and welcome back to McCann Dogs
knowing what you should be doing with
your puppy and when is really confidence
building for any puppy owners.
It’s also a great way to measure your
progressions and that’s really what I want
you to think about. Now,
before we start this video,
I’m going to encourage you to
grab a notebook or grab, you know,
a notes app on your phone to make notes
of the things that we’re going to talk
about today. I’m gonna break these
steps and stages down by weeks.
And then we’re going to get to a point
where a lot of the a weeks are similar.
And we’re gonna talk specifically about
the progressions that you can go through
for your specific puppy. Now,
most puppies come home to their new
families around the eight week mark.
So that’s where we’re going to start our
conversation today and at eight weeks,
this is a really important
relationship building time.
We’re not gonna Focus so much on
teaching our dog specific skills.
But what we are going to do is really
focus on some of the natural training
opportunities that you’re presented with
because we’re going to start building a
bond with our puppies right off the bat.
And I’m going to show you a couple of
really easy tricks to start doing that.
Food is a valuable resource to puppies.
They immediately see it as something that
they want and it’s great that it’s can
be something that comes
through you. So at eight weeks,
one of the first things I want you to
start doing is taking advantage of natural
training opportunities, like feeding
your puppy hand, feeding your puppy,
you know,
you portion out whatever their breakfast
or dinner or whatever meal it is,
and then you can hand feed them
some of that food at eight weeks.
Though we can also do things like
saying their name, then feeding them,
saying their name, and then feeding them.
This is really going to load up value
on that new word that they’re hearing.
Remember, they don’t
know what their name is.
So what we need to do is start to build
value on it and we’re going to do it by
doing things like that name. Then reward.
Another thing I want you to take advantage
of is we using the McCann Method we
use yes, as a verbal marker to let the
puppy know or dog as they’re growing up,
know that they’ve done
something absolutely right.
So I want you to start
building value on that. Yes,
it’s going to be really helpful down
the road and because you have so much
opportunity to build a bond and to try
to shape a puppy to love, to learn,
I want you to do the same thing
with that. Yes, it’ll be yes.
Then reward your puppy.
Yes. Then reward your puppy.
Now those food exercises are going to
get your puppies undivided attention,
but we want to also have an opportunity
to give her puppy information as they’re
moving around and open space when they’re
not totally focused on us and on the
food. So I want you to use
something like a house line.
We talk about house lines in a lot of
our puppy videos because it gives you so
much control and it allows your puppy
to make some choices as they move around
the area that you’re in as
you’re supervising them.
So make sure you attach
a house line. Your puppy.
If you’re not familiar
with what a house line is,
it’s just a line or a leash that
you’ve cut the loop, the handle off,
and you clip it to your puppy’s collar
so that you can keep them out of trouble
and redirect them if you need to.
Keep in mind your puppy has just
gone through a dramatic life change.
They’ve come away from their litter.
They’re now in a new environment,
in a new home with new people, so really
set your puppy up to be successful.
The best way to do that is to
ensure it 100% supervision.
Make sure that when your puppy
is out of the Kennel or crate,
that you’re there with them to give
them good information. This can be,
you know,
a pretty exciting and interesting and
sometimes scary change for your puppy,
so you want to be there to
make sure they’re getting
100% good information. Now,
supervision in mind, I mentioned
using a crate in the first day.
Home is a great day to start training
your puppy to love their crate.
It’s so important to have a management
tool because you want to make sure your
puppy can’t get into trouble and that
your puppy doesn’t learn the wrong things
during this first week home. Your
puppy is learning constantly,
whether you’re there to give
them information or not.
So make sure you manage them a little
bit by teaching them that they’re create
is a great place to go.
I’ve dropped the link in the description
of the video for you to check out a
video that will give you lots of exercises
to teach your puppy to love their
crate. But at the eight week mark,
make sure you’re using your crate for
great management and that way you’ll be
giving your puppy great leadership
potty training or house training,
however you refer to it. We’ll also begin
the first week home with your puppy,
so make sure you’re really
proactive about this step.
You’re probably likely to
have some accidents inside,
but there are some ways you can
minimize that by being proactive,
taking them out before they go in their
crate after immediately after they come
out of their crate. After every
meal, after every play session.
If they have a nap when they wake up,
you’re going to take
them outside to go potty.
But these are going to be really great
ways to set them up to be successful.
At the same time, you need
to be supervising that puppy.
So if you feel like you can’t
keep our 100% close eye on them,
put them in their crate.
Another added step that you can
do is put up some baby gates,
puppy proofs that room.
So your puppy can’t make any bad
decisions along the way. So, you know,
blocking off some of the areas where they
might get out and get into troubles a
really good idea and it allows you to
set them up so that they a don’t go sneak
away and pee on the carpet.
I want to talk specifically about those
first couple of nights home with your
puppy. In their crate. So remember,
this may be the first time that your
puppy has ever have had to hold their
bladder or bowels in the litter scenario.
They may have had an area where they
could just, if they felt the need,
they would walk over there
and go. But in this situation,
your puppy is going to be in their crate.
And what I want you to do to set them up
to be successful as elevate that crate,
try to make it line of sight.
So if you can maybe put it a,
an eye level beside your bed,
or maybe if you’re sleeping in an area
that’s nearby the puppy for the first
couple of nights, make sure that
you can see what’s going on.
It’s likely they’re going to have to go
out and you really want to acknowledge
that they do need to go out.
And then here that they need to go in
and take them outside so that they don’t
have an accident those first
couple of nights in their crate.
It’s also going to be a little bit
soothing for them to be able to see you as
they’re sleeping there at night.
So really take advantage of that crate
position those first couple of nights
home.
Now if you want to level up your eight
week old puppy training just a little
bit, something we’ll often do
is start to lure our puppies,
just guide them around, show showing
them some food, having them follow,
follow the food with really deliberate
hand motions so that we can teach our
puppy that following food
is worth something that is
valuable to pay attention
because these foundational skills are
going to be really helpful in the next
coming weeks for your puppy
training. Now at nine weeks old,
your puppy’s second week home,
you’re probably going to start to
get a little bit more confidence.
So supervision is even more
important at this point.
Using something like your house line,
you’re going to see how often you’re using
it to keep your puppy out of trouble,
but it’s so much easier
preventing problems rather
than fixing them rather than
to untrain your puppy to
do some of these things.
So really focused on supervision.
Your puppy is going to be exploring more
and they’re going to be more active and
they’re going to have a
little bit more energy.
So you’re going to have an eagle eye.
You’re going to keep 100% on eye on them
when they have freedom in your home.
Once your puppy is nine weeks,
you can start to increase the
challenge of some of the things,
the foundational things that we were
doing that week before with them.
I want you to continue doing some of
these natural training opportunities.
Hand feeding your puppy. Absolutely
you want to reinforce name,
then reward name, then
reward with your puppy.
We really want to build tons of value on
that and the likelihood is that when we
first bring that puppy home,
we’re probably calling their name a
lot and I want you to be really self
conscious about that.
Really think about when you’re using
your puppy’s name because if it’s not
followed with some sort of reward at
this point in your puppies training,
it’s going to start to lose value.
So take advantage of these natural
feeding training opportunities with that
young dog so that you can really teach
them that hearing that word means
something special is about to happen.
You can start to include some of your
family members at this point in the
training with some of the simple
exercises saying the puppy’s name.
Then rewarding them and marking the Yes,
really loading value on that word. Yes.
One really important thing at this point
is that you’re starting to increase the
challenge and a little bit of your luring.
You’re just showing your puppy that
things are going to get a little bit more
difficult.
You’re gonna have to work a little bit
harder for themselves if you are just
luring your puppy back
and forth at this point,
maybe you can teach them to spin in a
circle or how about you lure them to go
through your legs.
You’re just bumping up that challenge
level and if you’ve spent a week teaching
your puppy to follow food
and that it can be rewarding.
These things are easily accomplished,
but what we’re really trying to do is
teach our puppy that we can level things
up and it’s lots of fun and we’ve
already shown them that the value of it,
that when they do something
for you, they get rewarded.
So start to increase the
challenge a little bit.
Another thing I want you to be doing
at this point is handling your puppy’s
caller a lot.
You’re going to gently reach in when you
reward your puppy and take their color
and then reward them. You’re going
to reach around maybe the other side,
take their color and reward them.
Your puppy is going to have their caller
handled a lot over the next few weeks
and you want that to be a really rewarding
experience so that every time your
puppy comes near,
you can take their color and they know
that something good is about to happen.
You see, a lot of people
have hand shy dogs who you,
they go to reach out for their
puppy and their puppy kind of away.
You can entirely avoid this problem by
bringing you your puppy and nice and
close, taking that color. Then rewarding.
Now with your preparation and a little
bit of understanding from your puppy,
once you get to the 10 week mark,
I’m going to group puppies that are 10
to 16 weeks together because it’s much
more important at this learning stage in
your puppies understanding and what the
progressions are rather
than week by week by week.
But what I’m going to do in the next
part of the video is show you the exact
progressions that you need to accomplish
with your puppy so that you can help
them to be successful and what exercises
are going to be really important for
them to know at 10 weeks old,
we can really start to expect some
reliable responses from our puppy and now
that you have spent some time
teaching them how to follow food,
we’re going to talk about how to
teach them to sit down and stand in.
All of the progressions are going to
be exactly the same for each exercise.
I’ll maybe demonstrate the
sit cause it’s very visual,
but I want you to follow these same steps
for your puppy as you teach them each
skill. Now for our puppies
that are 10 to 16 weeks old,
we can start to follow a very simple
formula for teaching them a new skill and
it’s going to be command stimulus, reward.
And I’m going to show you exactly how
you’re going to do that with the sit
command to teach your
puppy to sit reliably.
We’re going to start out
with a treat in our hands,
something that you’ve learned through
these first couple of x weeks of
exercises, something
that they really like.
And then we’re going
to follow that formula.
So we’re going to tell our puppy to sit
that which is the command than lure,
which is the stimulus.
And then reward your puppy once
they’re in that sitting position.
Remember this is a brand
new skill for your puppy.
So a couple of mistakes that people will
make is that they’ll blend the command
and the stimulus so they’ll have
the treat and the puppy’s nose.
Then they’ll say, sit. All their
puppy is thinking about at that point,
at that point is the food that’s on
their nose. So remember, it’s always sit,
then lure, then reward.
Another thing people will do is after
a couple of successful repetitions,
they will take the lure away
or they’ll stand up tall.
They’ll change the picture entirely.
So for this first week when
you’re teaching your cit
or your stand or your down,
I want you to use the
command, say sit, then lure,
then reward and stick to
that for at least seven days.
Now once you’ve put in a solid week
of work on this, sit, then lure,
then reward.
It’s time to make things just a little
bit more challenging for your puppy.
Now I want you to think
in baby steps here.
So instead of changing
something dramatically,
we’re just gonna up the ante a little bit.
And instead of having a treat in our
hand, we’re not going to have any food,
but that lure is going to look the same.
Something that people often do is once
they don’t have the food in their hand as
they’re moving away from having to
have a food lawyer on their puppies,
knows their hand signal changes and
they’ll s you know, say sit and change,
there’ll be pointing or
it’ll be like high foot.
I mean there’s just a million
things they can be doing,
but what is challenging for the puppy is
that it doesn’t look the same anymore.
So that gradual step for
this week’s progression,
I want you to say sit with an empty
handed lure that looks the same as it did
last week. Lure the puppy into
position. Once they’re there, yes.
Then go into your bait, poach
and reward. Now we’ve started,
we’ve combined a couple
of things there that yes,
that we’ve loaded value on that marks
the moment that your puppy is correct,
that buys you the time to
go into your Bait Pouch.
It also makes it so that you don’t have
to have a treat in your hand the entire
time and I want you to work
on that step for your sit.
Stand and down for the next week.
Now after two weeks of solid training
and great repetition in well-timed lures,
it’s time to test your
puppy. So we in week three,
I want you to occasionally throw
in a sit with as much smaller,
lower or maybe no lure at all and see
what you get. A lot of your puppies,
if you’re timing this well, and
if you’re doing it consistently,
a lot of your puppies, the
moment you say sit there,
a little bumps are going to hit the floor.
And I want you to rejoice in that moment.
I want you to Jackpot reward them.
Really make it fun.
Really let them know if they are
offering that sort of you know,
a fast response that it’s worth it. So
really acknowledge your puppy success.
Now, if you aren’t getting those reliable
sits, I want you to take a step back.
Maybe that empty-handed lure it needs
to be adjusted and you need to do a few
more repetitions of that.
Maybe you’re in an environment that’s
a little bit too busy for that puppy.
There’s a little, there’s too
many distractions for them.
So you need to go back to
a quieter environment or a
location where they can be
successful before you can test.
We posted a really important video
last week for you as a puppy trainer.
I want you to watch it after this one,
and it’s all about the train principle
and how to get reliable skills from your
dog regardless of the environment.
I’ll post a link to that video
in the description below.
Far Too many puppy owners underestimate
the value of handling exercises.
There’s,
there’s just so there’s so much benefit
to do to doing these exercises with your
puppy. Things like trust,
a relationship building,
allowing you to touch their feet teaching
them to be calm and relaxed in certain
situations.
There’s just a million reasons why
you’d want your puppy to be comfortable,
comfortable when you’re handling them,
but so many puppy owners overlook that
in this next exercise kills going to show
you the precise progressions to teach
your puppy to be more comfortable with
handling. Instill that off switch
in your puppy. And believe me,
whether you understand
it at this point or not,
you will be really grateful that you’ve
practiced some of these exercises when
you have a puppy who’s very comfortable
being handled. Let’s head over to Kale
Now what I’m going to do is start off
with the very first step step to some of
those handling and when I want to
touch different parts of her body,
the first thing that I want to make sure
is that she’s in a completely relaxed
position and maybe not where she’s
trying to do tricks right now.
So what I’m going to do is take a piece
of food and I’m just going to lure her
in a down position and I want
her to be rotated onto one hip.
So all I did there, I’ll
show you that again,
is I just moved her head towards her
shoulder and that causes her to flip over
onto one side.
I’m just gonna give her all the food in
my hands because once the food’s out of
my hands, I’m going to allow
her to be a little calmer.
Now I like that there’s a blank and
under here cause I can pull her around a
little easier.
Now what I’m going to do is brace her
outside leg and I’m going to just gently
push on her shoulders to get her on her
side. Good girl. When she’s on her side,
we’re monkey mill. I’m just
going to pat her very calmly.
Good girl on your side. Yes.
And I actually teach and on your
side command on your side. Good girl.
She’s a good girl and I want
her to lay here completely,
calmly until I really cert. Good
girl on your side. Good girl.
Now for some dogs you certainly
could incorporate a lot of feeding,
but this particular puppy is very,
very food motivated and more.
The more that I use food,
the more frantic behavior I get
because she likes it so much.
So she actually responds a lot better
to just really calm praise and calm
petting and touching. Good
girl on your side. Good girl.
Very nice. Once she’s relaxed
and I can tell her, okay,
good girl and let her get up
from there. So that’s step one.
That’s what I would start off before
you do any touching of the body parts.
Good girl. Yes. Now, once your dog is
very comfortable laying on their side,
they’re relaxed and they’re calm
like I’m on your side. Good girl.
The next thing I would do is start
to touch different body parts.
Now I have a bag of cheese
hidden behind my leg.
Right now it’s out of sight so it’s not
super distracting and if B is able to
lay here calmly as I touch her, pause,
I’m going to say yes and then rewarder.
Now the timing of this is very important.
I need her to believe that the
best part of this high love bug,
the best part of this is when
I actually touch her paw.
It’s important that I use the word yes
to pinpoint that before I get my food
out. So I’m going to get her back
on her side here on your side.
Good girls settle. Good on your side.
It’s going to take a hold of her Paul.
Good on your side. Oh,
you’re so good. Yes.
So I’m going to say yes while I hold her
paw and then I’m going to get my cheese
out to reward her. Good girl
could. Yes. Very nice. Good.
What I wouldn’t want to do
is hold the paw, let go yes.
And get the food out because I
want her to think the best part.
So when I’m actually touching her body
parts and timing is really important in
dog training. They
learn within one second.
So it’s very important when you use
your pin porter or pinpoint word,
it’s at the right time. So I’m going
to try the other pond now. Good girl.
I might even make it a little
harder. Spread her toes apart.
Pull on each individual nail. That’s
something that I would have to do. Oops.
Settle. So she’s a little
uncomfortable with that,
so I’m just going to lay her
down against that. I’ll go girl.
Yes. She was completely calm that
time. You are so smart. Good girl.
Child back feet. Good girl. Oh she did?
Good Baby. Yes. Good girl. So yes,
while I’m touching then reward. I got
one more pot to do. Good girl. I damn,
I had a girl settle
there. Oh, that’s good. B.
Yes. Good girl. This is a really
easy thing to practice, you know,
between commercials or between shows
while you’re watching commercials rather.
It’s also good to practice this while
your dog is already a little bit tired in
the beginning so that they’re more likely
to settle and then as they get more
experienced with it, you can also
practice when they’re more excited. Know,
unfortunately,
you can’t always choose the energy level
of your dog when you take them to the
vet for an appointment.
They need to be able to be comfortable
with this type of handling anytime of the
day. And in any situation,
you are ridiculous. Good girl.
Now it’s not always convenient to have
your dog laying on their side to do
handling. There’s going to be times
where you need to look in their eyes,
check their ears, look in their teeth.
And for that I usually prefer to prefer
to have my dog sitting. So again,
I’m going to get rid of the food for a
second and I’m just going to have hurt my
hand in her color just to brace her a
little bit. And what I also like to do,
and just going to swing her this
way so you can see his brace,
my hand underneath her chin to help
keep her head still. And again,
if your dog’s not very used to
you holding them in this position,
I would take the time to pat and
praise calmly. Yes. Good girl. Yes.
And you could even just certainly
start off by rewarding that.
Now I have done this with this puppy
since the day I brought her home at eight
weeks old. So she’s quite
comfortable with this,
but some puppies and take a little
longer so you can see she just sort of
settles when I hold her there,
which means I can look in
her eyeballs really easily.
I can look in her ears really easily.
Make sure there’s no you know,
dirt or grime in there. Also too,
this is gonna sound really strange,
but one of the easiest way to say to tell
whether your dog has an ear infection
hypen is by smelling their ear. If they
have a funky smell coming from there,
they might have an ear infection.
So can she be still as I
get without kissing me? Yes.
Get my nose near her ear to smell
it. Good girl. Yes. You’re so good.
And again, I take my time doing this.
It’s a good idea to practice handling
when you don’t actually have to check them
from something. You know, I have some
time to do this. I can take it slow.
Now last but not least, their mouth.
This is one of the hardest things.
So when I start to work on being
able to look inside their mouth,
I start off by just simply
being able to lift her teeth.
Look at those pearly
whites. Yes. Good girl.
If she allows me to lift her lips to
see her teeth, I would reward that.
Then I could practice maybe trying
to open her mouth for a moment.
So I have my fingers
brace behind her teeth.
I’m just gonna open her
bottom jaw there. Okay.
So she wasn’t quite loving that
so I can try it again. Good.
Carol [inaudible]. Yes. Good.
[inaudible] See we just had
her do it for just a moment.
What I’m looking for is acceptance. I’m
looking for her to be still to be calm.
If she’s fighting me and trying
to pull her head out of my way.
I don’t want to be yessing rewarding
that. Come here. Monkey Moo.
He gonna chat again. Sit Up girl.
So I’m going to hold her head again.
Try One more time. Yes. Good
girl. Excellent. Very nice.
And I can just do a little bit to the
time when you’re doing handling, you can,
you know, choose to do, you know, one
body part and do that for a little bit.
And then maybe the next day do something
different depending on the comfort
level of your dog.
It’s always best to build on success
so that your dog doesn’t get worried or
stressed during this and they actually
find it a pretty nice, relaxing,
calm time with you.
Another crucial step in your 10 to
16 week old puppy is teaching your
Puppy their name.
Now I know the first response you
probably had when you heard that is,
oh my puppy knows their name,
but would your puppy know their name
and respond to their name if there were
another puppy around or if there were
something exciting like another friend or
family member or a toy in
the room. At this point,
your puppy is ready to learn that they
need to respond reliably to their name
each and every time, no matter
what’s going on around them,
and there’s some simple ways to
set up that training for them.
Let’s head over to our puppy headstart
training hall where I can show you the
progressions for teaching your puppy
to respond to their name each and every
time, no matter what’s
going on in the room.
When you start to teach
your puppy their name,
it’s really important that you
pay out each and every time.
So we’re going to call our puppy’s name.
We’re going to say Biggie’s name and then
we’re going to automatically lure him
for the first several
repetitions of this exercise.
So I’m going to do something. I’m going
to let him get naturally distracted,
which doesn’t seem to be that tough
with than the durable little puppy like
this, but I’m going to call
his name and then lure him.
So we’re going to get them distracted
and maybe I’ll just show them something
over there. Biggie and then bring him
around. Yes. Good boy. Nice job buddy.
We’ll let them get distracted again.
Orders for, take them out a little bit.
Biggie, show him that food, bring
him in. Yes. Good Job Pao. Way to go.
When you reward your puppy,
try to make sure you’re rewarding them
almost so they’re touching your legs that
we will see lots of value
for coming in really close.
Now we’re going to make it a little bit
more challenging for Biggie bite using a
little bit more motion.
But when we do that,
we want to use our house line and we
posted a video about that not that long
ago, just so that Biggie doesn’t leave me.
As we’re working on this
exercise I’m going to use,
I need to put a leash on him or I’m
going to use his house line and I’ll link
that video above just so that he doesn’t,
te can’t have an opportunity to be totally
gratified by something that’s not me,
but I want to show you how we can really
build some motivation for his name by
using a little bit of motion and some
exciting language or some exciting voice
sounds so I can let him get a little
bit distracted. Biggie. Yay. Good boy.
Way To go buddy and I’m going to move
away from him to really reinforce the fact
that him hearing his name and coming to
me is lots of fun so I can let him get
distracted again. Biggie. Yay. Had A boy.
Very nice way to go pal and
I’m gonna use that motion.
I’m going to use that exciting
sounding language. Biggie,
yea, to really reinforce that hearing
his name is lots and lots of fun.
Do you want to build even more
motivation into your response to name?
Try having someone hold your puppy as
you sneak away with an exciting toy,
then call their name and release
them. Biggie. Yeah. Out of,
Oh my good boy buddy. 10 so big.
He is really starting to know that
there’s lots of value in hearing that word
and I’ve made it lots of fun by
moving away and using some you know,
bubbly voice to really make it fun
for him to respond to that name.
So now we need to
challenge him a little bit.
We need to make it a little bit tougher.
So we’re going to use something like a
distraction and I’m going to recall him
off that name. Now at this
point, I’m not going to test him.
I’m going to make sure that he can be
right every single time by using that food
lore while I’m using that distraction.
So I’ll just set this tape down.
Yeah, I’ll call him biggie.
Yes. Good boy.
Now I’ve also opted to use some
high value food because you know,
having something new like this distraction
may prove to be a bit of a challenge.
So when I called Biggie
off of that distraction,
I’m going to use something like hit
some chicken or something that he really
finds valuable.
So an important step in using the
McCann method is letting your dog make a
choice and an important
step in teaching your dog.
Their name is the testing phase.
Now I’ve reduced the amount of distraction
they’ve taken that tape roll away.
But this time I’m not going to
automatically show biggie the food.
I’m just going to call his
name and see what happens.
Biggie. Yes.
Good boy. Very nice.
Now I’m still going to use that exciting
language and I’m still gonna use a
little bit of,
but I’m not going to automatically
put the treats in front of his face.
So let’s test him again.
Get them over here a little bit. I’m
going to stay nice and close though.
Biggie.
Yes. Good job buddy.
And you can see how excited he is to
respond to his name and how much fun he’s
having. That’s really important
as we’re training our puppies,
that they’re loving every
minute of the training.
Now as we increase the challenge,
it’s really important that we mark the
moment that our puppy’s making a great
choice. So when there’s that distraction,
whether it’s a two piece of tape on
the ground or maybe it’s a, you know,
some motion in the environment,
we marked that moment that he makes that
great choice. And that’s with the yes,
I use the yes to mark the moment that
Biggie’s making a really good choice.
What if our puppies aren’t
responding right away?
What if there’s some distraction that
they don’t respond the first time every
time to their name? Well, we’re
going to help them to be right.
We’re going to use something like a
little touch on their side to break their
focus, to get their attention back
on us. And I’ll show you what I mean.
So we’re going to help biggie
to get used to being touched.
So we’re going to do
something really, really
Simple like a little
touch. Good boy touch.
Yes. Good.
So these really comfortable
with that action piggy. Yes.
Good boy buddy. By following these steps,
you will have an excited and happy
and reliable response to name
No time at this age.
Some puppies can make it really
challenging to be working on some of these
skills and working through some of these
exercises because they’re using their
sharp little needle teeth and they’re
nipping and biting all the time.
Now for the sake of brevity,
I have made a playlist and
it’s in the description below.
If you have tried all kinds of things
to try to stop your puppy from nipping
while you’re training, then make
sure you check out that playlist.
It’s just for you. Once your
has reached the 16 week stage,
they’re ready for the
big dog training stuff,
walking on a loose leash that
come command, sit and stay.
If your puppy is ready
for that kind of thing,
make sure you click that card right there.
And I want you to enjoy every minute
of your puppy training journey.
And if you still have any
puppy training questions,
make sure you leave them in the
comments below. On that note,
I’m [inaudible] IP training.
